The Nigel Cabourn Autumn / Winter 2010 Collection is an in-depth look at the original and authentic foul-weather garments worn to protect against the harsh environment of working on the deep sea.
Oil-proofed cottons, heavy-weight woollen knitwear, canvas oil-cotton smocks and traditional fisherman’s hand knitted ganseys all featured heavily in the uniforms of the fisherman, lifeboat men and Navy sailors who spent weeks on end enduring cold North Sea storms and unrelenting weather. Their clothing was designed to protect them against torrential rainfall and the battering of saltwater whilst on deck, and keep them warm against the wind-chill of high speed gales. Their clothing had to protect them from the most extreme weather to ensure that the men could perform their important duties on ship.
In a time before modern synthetic waterproof fabrics existed, traditional fabrics and materials were used and adapted to resist the elements. Garments were weather-proofed by soaking cotton in linseed or fish oil, sometimes in beeswax. Shetland wool knitwear provided warmth, with a cotton or flannel base layer underneath. Cork was used to improve buoyancy in the water and chunky wooden toggles were used on heavyweight duffel coats as a way of keeping the very thick fabric closed against the cold harsh wind. Outerwear was often dyed bright yellow or orange to stand out in the poor visibility during a storm and made lifeboat men more visible to those who needed rescuing from the sea.
This collection is a study of these original foul-weather garments, based on carefully researched vintage pieces and using heritage British fabrics and the highest quality British manufacturers.
Check out the Nigel Cabourn Mountaineering Book, which illustrates the Fall/Winter 2010 collection and shot by photographer Matt Hind. Let us know what you think. I know it's too early to start thinking about coats.
Pinstripe Magazine Staff
Online Men’s Lifestyle Magazine on Gear, Grooming, Girls, Gadgets
